JarScape's Cork Terrarium Guide

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Thank you for your purchase of our handmade miniature cork terrarium. Below are some helpful setup instructions and key long-term care tips to ensure your new terrarium thrives. 

Unboxing Your Terrarium: Locate the plastic baggie containing care tools, and the terrarium care card, place them aside. The terrarium will be in a foam packaging shell secured to the bottom of the box. You’ll notice green tape covering the top. To remove, gently grip the sides of the jar packaging and slowly twist upwards, gently lifting until the grip strips separate from the bottom of the shipping box. Once separated, remove tape, and slowly lift out of the packing shell. Place the terrarium on a flat surface and use the provided care kit tools to remove the vertical foam packing strips from inside the terrarium. Be careful at this step to avoid de-planting. It’s best to first remove any foam pieces from the center, then remove the outside strips by pressing them against the glass and slowly dragging them upwards and out the top. Gently push plants towards the center that are interfering with removal. 

Initial Setup: Once the packing strips have been removed, if needed, reposition and secure contents with provided tools. If the glass has materials on it, use the provided stick cleaning swab for wiping the inside glass, and the microfiber wipe for the outside glass. The terrariums should arrive hydrated without the need to water but it is still best to check for the visual signs of watering which are described below in addition to important care tips to help ensure your terrarium thrives.

Light & Placement: Place your terrarium where it will receive indirect sunlight. This means a location where natural light does not cause a clearly defined shadow to be cast by the terrarium. Locations where you can see the sky or horizon but not sun directly are also good locations. Direct indoor artificial light where the cast of the terrarium’s shadow is defined, generally is not a problem unless the terrarium is very close to the light source so that it overheats. If there is one thing to remember, exposure to direct natural sunlight over prolonged periods will eventually kill the plants and ruin the terrarium due to overheating and/or drying out. 

Temperature & Placement: Place the terrarium in a location that is at least a few feet away from radiators or other sources of heat. Generally, colder air is not much of an issue so long as temperatures stay above 55-60 degrees indoors. Just avoid placing the terrarium directly against glass windows during winter months to avoid prolonged exposure to cold drafts. 

Watering: Drip filtered tap water, spring, or distilled water down the inside glass. A spray bottle, if handy, can also be used to water by misting the inside glass. Try to avoid soaking the plant directly; the goal is to hydrate the soil layers.

Visual Signs of Watering: 

• Condensation: Small amounts of condensation on the inside glass, especially at or below the soil line is normal, and often common during morning and evening times due to temperature changes. While heavy condensation above the soil line that lasts throughout the day indicates overwatering. To remedy, remove the cork lid until the inside condensation clears and reseal the cork airtight. If condensation re-appears simply open the lid again and repeat as needed.  
• Soil Layer Appearance: The soil should appear damp, with some condensation visible on the glass within the soil layer. Soil that appears muddy and wet indicates overwatering. Adress this imbalance quickly by opening the lid completely. Saturated soil will suffocate the plants and eventually result in yellow wilting leaves. 
• Drainage Layer Appearance: Some condensation should be visible in the bottom drainage layer. While water that has pooled and remains unabsorbed for extended time indicates overwatering. To remedy, slightly open the lid by resting it at a slight angle until the pooled water at the bottom has evaporated. It’s best to open the top only partially to ensure the top half of the terrarium does not completely dry out as it can take longer to evaporate than drying the upper soil layer or glass condensation. 
• Dryness Indicators: One unique way to tell if the terrarium needs water, is the appearance of the tan bonsai pumice we use in our design. These pebbles should appear dark tan when hydrated. If their surface looks chalky and a light tan, the soil layer is likely dry. Soil layer dryness is also identified when it appears loose and crumbly. To remedy add a few drops of water down the inside glass, monitor, and repeat as needed. Another key indicator is the cushion moss found in the center. If they appear shriveled or if their “leaves” called phyllids are not fully relaxing, then this indicates humidity is low and water droplets should be added. 

In Summary:

Overall, these little cork terrariums are quite hardy and do not require much care. Most importantly make sure the terrarium avoids direct sunlight and is never in a prolonged state of dryness. To reduce the need for watering, ensure the cork is airtight. When watering is needed drip filtered tap, spring, or distilled water down the inside glass into the soil. You may need to trim plants as they grow. Cuttings can be discarded or planted again in another terrarium. In practice these terrariums can last indefinitely if proper care and placement is provided. We hope you have the best of success in maintaining your new terrarium so it can thrive for years to come!